Finally, survivalists and outdoor enthusiasts had an esteemed rifle design of known reliability, quality, and accuracy that broke down easily — no tools required!
With other existing takedown. The barrel turns and pulls out of the receiver once the bolt has been locked back and the knurled locking nut has been loosened, breaking down into two sections that stow away into a padded case.
The case sports two pouches on the outside one with MOLLE straps for extra magazines, ammunition, hearing protection, or whatever else you deem fit to keep with the rifle. On the inside of the case, there is one larger velcro-secured pouch that houses the receiver and rear stock assembly, and two smaller pouches, one of which holds the barrel and front stock assembly.
Ruger 10/22 Tactical Take Down with AGP Arms Stock Kit | SinistralRifleman
Yes, I suppose that if I had to, I could use it for self-defense — but I think at almost any range under yards, a high-quality, accurate 9mm or larger handgun will probably do a better job in that department than a.
Now, I LOVE a nice fine brass-bead front sight, so kudos to Ruger for incorporating that out at the end of the barrel.
Yes, I know that factory standard buckhorn sights have harvested millions of animals and perforated millions of targets, as well as having helped untold numbers of first-time shooters cut their teeth on shooting.
But, no matter how you look at it or through it , they just plain suck. How can you go wrong, especially when great sights are readily available, for not much money? These offerings combine aperture style rear sights with Picatinny rails that allow you to also mount optics while keeping the rear sight mounted.
As a bonus, you can just flip down the standard Ruger rear sight and use it as a tertiary sight in case your aperture gets banged up or otherwise put out of action.
Combine the rings with a small, lightweight red dot sight like the ADCO Ranger or a rimfire-oriented non battery-utilizing! A quality optic, a backup or primary! Gotta love redundancy in a survival rifle! Yessir, the long gun requires a sling. M6 Scout Survival Rifle Review. I ALWAYS mount slings on long guns that leave the house with me. There are kits that have fixed swivel loops that are attached to the rifle, but you have to remember: So quick-detchable QD sling swivels that are easily removed from the attachment stud are the way to go.
In the package, we find a few things: Two screw-in type swivel studs: They have a pretty coarse thread, since they are designed to be driven into a wood stock.
One blade-type sling swivel stud that is designed to be mounted on the front barrel band, clamped between the two ends of the band where they are screwed together on the bottom of the gun. These can fit in either type of supplied sling swivel stud. We can either mount both of the screw-in studs one in the buttstock, one in the forend or just one on the buttstock and one in the barrel band. I chose the latter setup and collected the tools: This located where the buttstock stud would be located.
There is a moulding line that runs up the bottom of the stock, dead center, so I used this as the centerline for my first mark. I mounted one of the quick-detachable swivels to the stud, and used that for a little bit of leverage to screw the stud into the stock.
I started the threads on the stud, then stirred up a small amount of JB-Weld epoxy. Once it was properly mixed, I applied a glob to the threads of the stud, then finished screwing it into the stock.
I wiped off the excess and set it aside overnight to cure. For the front band-mounted swivel, I did the obvious thing first: I unscrewed the clamping screw, opened the band up a tad, and inserted the swivel. OK, back to the drawing board…. Since the barrel band is just plastic, I took it all apart again, and removed the screw and its nut buried in one half of the band. I took a piece of grit sandpaper and folded it in half, so there was abrasive on both sides of the paper.
It took some patience, and a lot of trial-and-error, but eventually I removed enough material so that the blade sat inside the band and the whole works sat securely on the gun. I purchased a black nylon sling, and after threading it through the supplied swivels, I now have a nice, secure sling setup that can be used once the rifle is assembled. The sling dismounts from the rifle with zero effort, and everything stows nicely in the Ruger carrying case.
With those two modifications behind us, there are some other less-pressing issues that kinda bug me, but not enough to get me up in arms about HAVING to fix them immediately. However, it IS functional, just different. There is a quick, cheap fix for this, though: I watched this YouTube video from TriggerShims.
Another small issue is the fact that the flush-fitting round magazines are rather difficult to extract from the gun. But the rounders require you to squeeze the magazine release while pinching the magazine fore and aft, and then wiggling it around a bit to remove. This is a moot point post SHTF , but I like using my guns for hunting, etc. There is also a spring-loaded floor plate called the SLAM Magazine Base that helps eject the magazine under spring tension.
Either of these would definitely help mitigate the magazine extraction issue. Costs for this whole setup? But the main-item breakdown is:. Those adds will be a great foundation to your personal customization.. Sound off in the comments! Drew Ruger Bald Steve. We have compiled a list of Top Survival Websites, Homestead Websites, and Resources for you to review And it is free. We allow a limited number of ads on SurvivalCache. If you find our site useful, you can support us. Do you have a passion for writing or a great article idea?
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DrFrankenRuger - Ruger 10/22 Takedown Stocks
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